The Dell E151FP LCD screen does not have a power indicator and after opening the lid I noticed some components on fire. The R623 is blown (4.7 ohm) and you can still recognize the resistance color code. The outermost layer of the current sense of deprivation (0.68 ohm) was partially removed and burned slightly, and when I tried to remove the pin, the filter capacitor c605 (68uF 400V) was replaced.
This is not a new example and I think many experienced technicians have solved this problem. But for those of you who aren’t experiencing this problem,
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You should fix any other LCD screens that have a power problem.
First I’ll remove the power supply and make sure it’s working properly with my Dick Smith flyback tester. I do this first because I don’t want to waste my time checking other components and then I realize that the power supply is the cause of the power problem. When that’s okay, I’ll measure all secondary diodes. FYI, most LCD power supplies typically use Scottish diode diodes and specifications of 10 to 20 MPS, typically around 40 volts. However, I have developed some designs that still use ultra fast recovery type diodes in the secondary. Make sure you know how to check Scottish diodes and diodes regularly. Go back to my website in the Diode section and check out the Scottish Diode article. So I will also check the ESR of the electrolytic capacitors.
After making sure that all of the minor side components have been tested,
I will continue to remove the main side components. You can check some components on the primary side of the aircraft, such as the bridge rectifier and valve. If I am new to the LCD model, I will test all components except the board (with the wire attached to the board). This way, you will make sure that all the components you scanned are present.
These are the components that I find faulty.
Fuse – 2A, R615-0.68 ohm, R613-1K, R612-47 ohm, R623-4.7hm, D604-1N4148, Q601-SSS6N60A, C605-68UF 400V and IC601-UC3842B. It was a total of nine components and it took less than 20 minutes to check all components on the main side. Search time for spare parts. After spending about 5 minutes in the spare compartment, I was able to find all components except the SSS6N60A power output.
Although this part number is mainly used for switch mode power supply, my electronics supplier does not have this stock. I will then go through the semiconductor database to find the equivalent part number. The book suggests using K1118 as a backup. Once all the components are in their original position or position and of course the power supply is soldered, I still don’t turn on the power. First, I’m going to use a 100 watt bulb connected directly to the series.
The best place to put the lamp is in the fuse holder.
Remove one of the valve wires and attach the lamp to it. Turn it on and start looking at the light bulb. If it shines brightly and stays that way, there is still a problem with the power supply. However, if the lamp does not burn out at all, it is a good sign that the power supply is working.
It was placed on the secondary side using a multimeter. If you get the correct voltage reading from the output and the lamp does not burn out at all, it confirms that the power supply is working. Turn off the power, reconnect the fuse and turn on the LCD again.
I’m sure the LCD will work now.
Whether you have problems with DELL E151FP LCD monitors or other brands, you can always use the above procedure to solve the power problem. This method can also be used to repair other types of electricity. Make sure you know how to inspect and test large electronic components, no matter what type of power supply problems you’re having. If you lose someone, sadly you have to say that you can’t fix the problem or that it will take you most of your precious hours. Good hunting!